Cameron County Master Gardener Arboretum

Julian Sauls' Texas Red Oaks

2010-06-18T10:21:00.000-05:00

This seedling is a Texas Red Oak or Quercus shumardii cv texana.   Dr. Julian Sauls and one of his co-workers has been breeding this tree since the 1970s.   They are choosing characteristics that will perform well in the Rio Grande Valley.

The original selection was from a wild tree somewhere near Breckinridge - that trees location is no longer known. Seed from the Breckenridge tree were planted in Arlington, Texas in the mid 70s.  Then seed from the Arlington tree were planted in Tyler in the late 70s. These seedlings came from the Tyler tree. Unfortunately the Arlington plantings were lost to urban development quite a few years ago.

Dr. Sauls was generous enough to give a number of seedlings to the Cameron County Master Gardeners a few months ago. It's time to bump them up to a larger container.     In a few years, one should be large enough to transplant into The Arboretum.    Hopefully, we'll have another tree that will perform well in our area!

June Gardening To-Do List

2010-06-01T10:27:00.000-05:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: Mexican heather, ruellia, gerbera daisy, dusty miller, gazania, vinca, night and day purslane, iceplant, moss rose, caladium, coleus, celosia.

Trees: Natives: live oak, anacua, Rio Grande ash, mesquite, retama, wild olive.

Non-native: Cottonwood, crepe myrtle. Buy only container grown plants. But if must buy trees with root balls wrapped in burlap, make sure the tree is green and healthy.

Palms: Summer is the perfect time to plant palms.
Shrubs: bougainvillea, plumbago, manzanita (barbados cherry), lantana, hachinal ,coral bean, yucca, butterfly bush (buddleia) butterfly weed, wild petunia (ruellia), hibiscus. Note: most of these shrubs attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden.

Vegetables: Peppers.

Herbs: mint, rosemary, rue, oregano, hierba buena.

Remember:
-When planting trees, shrubs, flowers and herbs use mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture.

-Water recently planted materials once or twice a week and water deeply.

-Try to give your tomatoes afternoon shade.

-Keep all flower beds and vegetable garden areas free of weeds so they don’t compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients.

-Add 1 inch of organic matter to your gardens and beds, work it in.

-Regularly check for whitefly and aphids, control with soapy water spray. Be sure to spray under the leaves.

-Check for grubs in your lawn. Brown patches are an indicator. Control with a granular insecticide such as Dursban or Diazinon.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the Lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, PO Box 1433, Edinburg, TX)

Earth-Kind Gardening Seminar

2010-04-12T10:52:00.000-05:00

Great info on our upcoming Earth-Kind Landscape and Gardening Seminar!
AgriLife News

April To-Do List for Cameron County Yards & Gardens

2010-04-03T14:14:00.001-05:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: marigolds, moss rose, Louisiana iris, geraniums, daylilies, dusty miller, vinca (periwinkle), and most spring blooming annuals and perennials listed in the March-To-Do list.

Trees: mesquite, retama, cedar elm, live oak, royal poinciana (flamboyan), jacaranda, golden rain, orchid tree (pata de vaca). Container grown only, if wrapped in burlap make sure the root ball is firm, hasn’t been crushed or watery.

Shrubs: hibiscus, bougainvillea, plumbago, lantana (all varieties), pomegranate, cape honeysuckle, Turk’s cap, white brush.

Vegetables: cantaloupe and honeydew melons, corn, cucumber, okra, peppers, pumpkin, squash (summer), watermelon.
Herbs: cilantro, garlic, mint, rosemary, dill, rue.
Remember:
-The high water use tropical plants: ficus trees and crotons (all varieties) can be planted now.
-When planting trees and shrubs put mulch over the bare soil around the plant to conserve moisture. When watering, water deeply and only once a week.
-Keep all flower and vegetable beds free of weeds. This will prevent competition for fertilizer and water.
-Prune Spring flowering trees and shrubs after they have bloomed.
-Cut poinsettias back and fertilize.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc.)

Mountain Laurels - What's In A Name?

2010-03-09T11:29:00.000-06:00

by Thomas Sullivan, class of 2009
When I first learned of the Texas Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora), I presumed it was related to the Mountain Laurel (Kalamia latifolia), the State Flower of my native Pennsylvania. If these Master Gardner classes have taught me anything, it was not to presume. Research, research, research.

The two mountain laurels share a name and great intrinsic beauty but little else. In some ways, they are direct opposites.

Two examples of the Texas Mountain Laurel

And two examples of the Pennsylvania’s Mountain Laurel:

Family Relatives

The family classifications immediately show how different they are. The Texas Mountain Laurel, while essentially an ornamental, is a member of the legume family, Fabacaeae, which includes important agricultural plants such as soybeans, alfalfa, and peanuts. It is native to the Texas Hill Country and ranges throughout the arid and semi-arid high alkaline soils of Texas, New Mexico, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Hidalgo, and Puebla. Conversely, Pennsylvania’s Mountain Laurel is in the Ericaceae family which is literally “lime-hating”. Its family includes azaleas, rhododendron, blueberries and cranberries. It thrives in the moist acidic suits of the Appalachian Mountains from northern Florida to southern Maine. Unlike the Texas Mountain Laurel which does not tolerate temperatures below 10°, it is extremely cold hardy.

Size, Leaves, and Flowers

Both mountain laurels are spring bloomers, although spring comes significantly later in Pennsylvania. The Texas Mountain Laurel blooms in March and lasts for months. The Pennsylvania variety blooms in late May and peaks in June. By July, it is done.

Each is a shrub or small tree growing 6-15 feet with the Pennsylvanian somewhat larger. There is one on record at 40 feet, but most range less than 20.

Both varieties have gorgeous show-stopping flowers. The Texas Mountain Laurel has purple wisteria-like drop down blossoms with a strong aroma described as grape “Kool-Aid”. Pennsylvania’s Mountain Laurel has large showy clusters of pink/white symmetrical flowers with a deep pink or red center. Both have strong evergreen leaves. They both do best in full sun or light shade although the Pennsylvanian tolerates full shade. Curiously, both are toxic. More on this below.

Propagation and Cultivation

The Texas Mountain Laurel is reportedly tricky to transplant. Container plants may require a year or more to establish themselves and bloom. Seeding appears to be preferred by some authors. Dr. William Welch of Texas A&M suggests planting the seeds while they are still unripe and pink. They should be planted in late June or early July. However, since they do not transplant well, better to plant them where you want them.

Pennsylvania’s Mountain Laurel grows wild through out the Appalachian Mountains and is available commercially in containers. Seeds are small and mature late in the season. At least one author suggested propagation is enhanced by cold-moist stratification.

Toxicity

The leaves of the Texas Mountain Laurel are very poisonous and authors warn parents of small children. This may be connected to the myth generated by the plant’s “other” name, Mescal Bean. The bean is not used in the production of mescal or tequila and does not contain any mescaline. However, it does contain alkaloid cytisne which is chemically related to nicotine. The seeds are toxic if ingested.

The Pennsylvania Mountain Laurel is another story entirely. The leaves, bark, and all green portions of the plant contain andromedotoxin and arbutin which routinely kill horses, cattle, sheep, and deer. It is related to another variety called “sheep laurel” and “lambkill” which, by it very name, certainly indicates its potency.

The Pennsylvanian by birth and Texan by adoption is hard pressed to pick a favorite. So I will just appreciate the extraordinary beauty of each mountain laurel of my homelands.

Acknowledgments:

Horticulture Update: April 2002. Edited by Douglas F. Welsh, Ph.D.

Landscape Horticulture: William C. Welsh, Ph.D. Texas A & M University

Extension Horticulture: Texas Cooperative Extension, Texas A&M University System.

Fabaceae Family: Master Gardeners of the University of Arizona Pima County Cooperative Extension.

USDA National Resources Conservation Service.

Pennsylvania Botanical Society.

Connecticut Botanical Society.

March To-Do List

2010-03-02T21:05:00.000-06:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: ageratum, alyssum, calendula, dianthus, geraniums, kalanchoe, larkspur, Mexican heather, snapdragons, stocks, petunias, vinca.

Trees: Natives: chapote, coma del sur, coyote willow, guayacan, live oak, mescal bean or Texas mountain laurel, retama, Rio Grande ash, tenaza, Texas ebony, Texas sabal Palm.

Shrubs:
Natives: black brush, chapotillo, heart-leaf hibiscus, low croton, manzanita, Mexican trixis, nopal prickly pear, Texas kidneywood, Turk’s cap.

Non-natives (well adapted to Cameron County): dwarf yaupon holly, hibiscus, hybrid lantanas, Japanese boxwood, oleander, pottisporum, shrimp plant, viburnum.

Vegetables: beans (green), lettuce, onions (green), peppers (sweet and hot), radishes, tomatoes, turnips.

Herbs: dill, lavender, all basils, mint, mustard, oregano, parsley, rosemary, spearmint.

Remember:
-Start a weekly check/spray schedule for aphids on roses, hibiscus and other plants. Before spraying check for beneficial ladybugs. ALWAYS read and follow spray label direction for application.
-Till your vegetable garden, add organic matter, pull weeds.
-Add and work in compost to your garden and flower beds.
-Last month to plant roses.
-Take soil samples from your yard and garden for mineral analyses. This is helpful for correct fertilizer applications. Contact the Cameron County Extension Office for details.
-Use mulch when newly planting trees and shrubs.
-Cut Poinsettias to 12 inches above the ground.
-Divide ornamental grasses.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native trees- and Native Shrubs- of the lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, P. O. Box 1433, Edinburg, TX.)

February To-Do List

2010-02-01T20:52:00.000-06:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: petunias, ice plant, ruelia (Mexican petunia), Mexican heather, kalanchoes, geraniums, impatients, Gerbera daisies, alyssum, salvia.

Trees: Texas ebony, anaqua, wild olive, live oak, retama, colima, brazil, western soapberry.

Shrubs: Native: Trecul’s yucca, desert yaupon, coral bean, hachinal, black brush, cenizo, chilipiquin, Texas lantana, oregano.

Non-native well adapted to South Texas: Cape honeysuckle, fire cracker, Mexican firebush (Hamelia) salvias, hibiscus, bougainvillea, gardenia, oleander.

Vegetables: broccoli, carrots, melons (cantaloupe and honeydew), peppers (sweet), squash, tomatoes, watermelons.

Herbs: anise, basil, catnip, garlic, mints, parsley (curly and Italian), rue, thyme.

Remember:
- Harvest of some cool season vegetables.
-Don’t put away your freeze protection materials just yet, wait another month.
-Plant roses this month.
-Feed your roses with a systemic insecticide and rose food.
-Acid fertilizer should be applied to acid loving plants.
-Prepare soil for vegetable and flower gardens.
-Use mulch to cover the soil after planting trees, shrubs and bedding plants.

January To-Do List

2010-01-10T19:46:00.000-06:00

To-Do List for Cameron County Yards and Gardens

TIME TO PLANT:

Flowers: ageratum, alyssum, amaryllis bulbs, begonias, calendulas, calla lilies, dianthus, gerbera daisies, geraniums, kalanchoes, marigolds, roses, snapdragons, stocks.

Trees: southern live oak, Rio Grande ash, retama, wild olive, tepeguaje, Texas mountain laurel, anaqua, mesquite, Wright’s catclaw, guajillo, Texas paloverde, guayacan.

Shrubs: Native: cenizo or purple sage, low croton, Texas lantana, nopal prickly pear, hachinal, Mexican caesalpinia, Texas baby bonnets, Torrey’s croton, yellow sophora, brush holly.

Non native-cold tolerant: viburnum, pittosporum, Japanese boxwood, Japanese yew, dwarf yaupon holly, waxleaf ligustrum.

Vegetables: leaf lettuce, radishes, potatoes.

Herbs: anise, basil, dill, fennel, mint, rosemary, rue, thyme. Basil can be potted and brought indoors incase of a frost.

REMEMBER:

-Harvest leafy greens, root crops, grapefruit, oranges and tangerines.

-Prune your peach trees,

-Plant rose bushes. Purchase roses for planting that have been grafted on Dr. Huey, California or Mexican rootstock. Antiques roses do well on their own root stock.

-Consider what new trees and shrubs you want to plant. The next three months are a great time to plant trees and shrubs.

-Prune many of your trees and shrubs, now that the leaves have fallen.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the Lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, P.O. Box 1433, Edinburg, TX.) .

Potatoes!?

2009-12-12T00:12:00.003-06:00

It's a cold Winter day in the Valley, and yet I can't help but think of potatoes. "Why?" you ask, we're about to find out.

The ubiquitous potato (Solanum tuberosum) originates in the Peruvian Andes of South America in Alpine regions where the daytime temperature rarely exceed 70° F. Not surprisingly, it turns out potatoes form tubers optimally at soil temperatures between 60° and 70° F. Tuber formation stops altogether at 80° and above.

So, what does this mean for growing potatoes in the Valley?

As residents of the RGV we are blessed with a warm climate, relatively mild Winters and long growing seasons, but it gets hot here... Very Hot. To top it off spuds can take anywhere from 80 to 120 days to mature depending on the variety. What this translates to is a small window of opportunity to get them into the ground and growing before temperatures rise so high that growth stops and you end up with teeny tiny tubers. I assure you, nothing is more depressing than anxiously digging up your home grown potatoes only to find pea sized proto-potatoes. As it turns out this planting window is a two week period beginning about mid January. That means planting time is about a month away. Now is the best time find your potatoes!

Obtaining Potato "Seed"

Potatoes are grown from... well.... other potatoes. That is-- what is referred to as potato "seed" are actually tubers from existing cultivars, essentially clones of the parent plant, rather than true seeds. Although they are capable of flowering and producing true seed, this is rarely done as any offspring are not likely to grow true to type, due to the genetics of potatoes. The downside to having consistent potato clones, is that any disease a plant picks up is then transferred to its cloned offspring, and subsequently to its offspring, etc. So although you can save your own potatoes for replanting, quality of subsequent crops can take a nose-dive. Thankfully, you can purchase "Certified Seed Potatoes" which have been tested to ensure that they are disease free.

There are many varieties out there to experiment with such as russets, fingerlings, whites, yellows, reds and even blues! When choosing a variety consider disease resistance and time to maturity, early varieties are ideal.

Three specific varieties that are well adapted to growing in the RGV are:

Red La Soda
Red Pontiac
White Kennebec

Mail Order is a great way to obtain your seed potatoes as there are various gardening catalogs and internet sites that sell Certified Seed Potatoes. One caveat however, is that you must confirm when their shipping dates are. One very well respected mail order company offers a wonderful selection, but further research shows their first shipping date is in March! Great for other parts of the country, but not for us, so always double-check. If you look around, you can find some that are in fact shipping now. You can also check local nursuries, and suppliers who will usually carry seed potatoes in January. If all else fails, there's always the grocery store! While not ideal, you can in fact grow potatoes just fine this way. It is said that such potatoes are sprayed with a sprouting inhibitor, but they will eventually sprout, if a tad later. Although If you can find some organic grocery store potatoes, I speculate they are not sprayed with such a chemical.

Growing

Once you have your seed potatoes put them in an area where they will get some sun for at least a few days. This will encourage plantlets to form at the eyes and begin growing, giving your taters a bit of a head start before they go in the ground. If your seed potatoes are large, you can cut them into smaller sections so long as each piece has at least an eye or two. If possible, coat the freshly cut areas with sulfur to reduce the chance of fungal infection, and give the pieces enough time to callous over

Loose soil is a must. Rototill or manually cultivate your growing plot so that you have a nice fluffy consistency. Plant each "seed" about 15" to 18" apart in rows spaced about 3' to 4' wide. You can put them closer if your soil is rich and fertile. Cover them with only a couple inches of soil, and don't plant them too deep as they don't like wet feet. As they begin to grow you can periodically rake in soil from the space in between the rows to create hills of soil around the base of the plants, burying the lower parts of the stems. This gives the growing plants a larger volume of loose soil within which it can put out more tubers. If you're looking for yummy new potatoes, you can pluck potatoes while the plants are still green. If you want larger potatoes that can be stored for a bit longer, wait until after your plants have keeled over before harvesting. Use a spading fork to gently coax the base of the plant out of the ground along with the potatoes. For fun, leave some of the potatoes in the ground and you'll have free volunteer plants in fall, without any effort!

If you've never grown potatoes, give 'em a try. Now's your chance! If you'll excuse me, I'm off to have a midnight snack of... potato chips!

Propagating Roses

2009-11-21T15:01:00.000-06:00

Master Gardener Jennifer Wilson shared a fuss-free method of rose propagation.

Jennifer says to look for cool nights when you are deciding when to propagate or plant roses.

Cuttings should be about a pencil width. Cut your stem right below a leaf node and remove all but a couple of leaves.

Jennifer uses a growing medium that is 50% potting mix and 50% vermiculite or perlite. Place a couple inches into a quart size zipper bag and put your cutting into it.

Zip the bag closed and place where it will receive indirect sunlight. You may need to add a little water (a teaspoon) - but wait and see if condensation forms inside the bag before you add water.

Our growing medium had enough moisture that condensation formed inside all the cutting bags. If you've taken a number of cuttings, be sure to identify them.

November To-Do List for South Texas Gardeners

2009-11-01T09:22:00.002-06:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: anemone bulbs, calendula, geraniums, larkspur, dianthus, petunias, impatiens, ranunculus bulbs, snapdragons, stocks, calla lilies.

Trees: mesquite, live oak, cedar elm, Rio Grande ash, anacua, Texas mountain laurel, brasil, chapote.

Shrubs: Native: yellow sophora, brush holly, Texas Kidneywood, hachinal, heart-leaf hibiscus, Drummond’s Turk’s cap, blackbrush, Torry’s croton, Texas baby-bonnets, low croton.

Non-native: cold tolerant: Japanese boxwood, green pittosporum, variegated pittosporum, nandina, viburnum, dwarf yaupon holly, waxleaf ligustrum, red-tip photinia.

Vegetables: broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, mustard, onions, turnips.

Herbs: anise, basil, Mexican mint marigold, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme.

Remember:

-Harvest peppers, tomatoes, greens, citrus, avocados, pecans.

-Divide daylilies.

-Fertilize 6 to 8 week old vegetable plants with 1lb. ammonium nitrate or 2 lbs. of 16-20-0 per 50 feet of row.

-At the end of the month buy your poinsettias. There are five different color types: red, pink, yellow, white, and jingle bells which is variegated red and white.

-Plant roses.

-Collect leaves from shedding trees and bushes. COMPOST THEM!.

-Watch the weather reports for possible freezing conditions.

-Collect materials to protect citrus trees and tender ornamentals from freezes.

-At the end of the month purchase Christmas cactus for blooming in December.

-Plan now for your December christmas tree.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs- of the lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, P.O. Box 1433, Edinburg, TX.

Citrus Trees

2009-10-30T08:32:00.000-05:00

In addition to providing yummy fruit, citrus trees are also a host for the Giant Swallowtail, the largest butterfly in North America. The Giant Swallowtail caterpillar is the only caterpillar that has its own name - Orangedog - because, it hosts on orange, lemon, lime and grapefruit trees.

Gardening for Butterflies

2009-10-29T09:56:00.006-05:00

Want to attract more butterflies to your landscape? Taffy, a Master Gardener and butterfly expert extraordinaire, has a list of books just for you.

BUTTERFLY IDENTIFICATION

Glassberg J. 1999. Butterflies Through Binoculars: The East. Oxford University Press. 416 pages. ISBN: 0195106687.

Glassberg J. 2001. Butterflies Through Binoculars: The West. Oxford University Press. 374 pages. ISBN: 0195106695

Neck, R.W. 1996. A Field Guide to the Butterflies of Texas. Gulf Publishing Co. 323 pgs. ISBN: 0-87719-243-X

Opler, P.A. 1992. A Field Guide to Eastern Butterflies. Houghton Mifflin Co. 393 pgs. ISBN: 0-395-36452-3 (cloth). 0-395-63279-X (paperback).

Pyle, R. M. 1981. The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Butterflies. Alfred A. Knoph Co. 916 pgs. ISBN: 0-394-51914-0.

Scott, J. A. 1986 The Butterflies of North America, A Natural History and Field Guide. Stanford University Press. 583 pgs. ISBN: 0-8047-1205-0.

Tveten, J.L. & Tveten, G. 1996. Butterflies of Houston and Southeast Texas. University of Texas Press. 292 pgs. ISBN. 0-292-78142-3 (cloth) 0-292-78143-1 (paperback).

GARDENING GUIDES

Ajilvsgi, G. 1990. Butterfly Gardening for the South. Taylor Publishing co. 342. pgs. ISBN: 0-87833-738-5.

Wasowski, S. 1997. Native Texas Plants, Landscaping Region by Region. Texas Monthly Press. 406 pgs. ISBN: 0-87719-111-5.

Xerces Society. 1990. Butterfly Gardening: Creating Summer Magic in your Garden. Sierra Club Books. ISBN: 0-871856-615-X.

NECTAR AND HOST PLANT IDENTIFICATION

Everitt, J.H. and Drawe, D.L. 1993. Trees, Shrubs, and Cacti of South Texas. Texas Tech University Press. 213 pgs. ISBN: 0-89672-252-X (cloth) 0-89672-253-8 (paperback).

Lonard, R.I., Everitt, J.H. and Judd, F.W. 1991. Woody Plants of the Lower Rio Grande Valley. Texas Memorial Museum. 179 pgs. ISBN: 0082-3082-7.

Richardson, A. 1995. Plants of the Rio Grande Delta. University of Texas Press. 332 pgs. ISBN: 0-292-77068 (cloth) 0-292-77070-7 (paperback).

Taffy's Gardening For Butterflies Tips

Fall Vegetable Gardening

2009-10-21T09:08:00.000-05:00

I am a Winter Texan and would like to plant some herbs and vegetable when I arrive mid-October. Do you have a list of things I can plant at that time, or early November? I have an acre and a half of land, a rotor tiller and all the water necessary. - Valerie S

Fall is a wonderful time in the Rio Grande Valley to plant vegetables and herbs. Specific items are listed on our website in the "Monthly To-Do" section.

Fall and winter vegetables include:
beets
broccoli
brussel sprouts
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
collards
leaf lettuces
onions
spinach
Personally, I also grow tomatoes (from transplants) in my fall garden. Cherry, roma, and other smaller varieties have a shorter maturation date and do better for me in the fall. Some years we get lots of tomatoes and others it gets colder earlier and they don't fruit until spring.

Herbs that can be grown during the fall and winter include
basil
chervil
chives
cilantro
dill
fennel
garlic
chives
Mexican marigold
mint
parsley
rue
rosemary
sage
spinach
thyme
Many of these herbs will carry over into the spring and summer.

The Cameron County Master Gardeners for 2009

2009-10-15T10:20:00.006-05:00

On Oct 7, 2009, the Cameron County Master Gardeners held their Graduation Ceremonies at the Historic Dancy Building in Brownsville. What a lovely evening with the graduates and family members and guest in attendance. Invited guest speaker from College Station, Ms. Jayla Fry, State Coordinator for the Master Gardener Program and Debby Cox, Master Gardener since 1996 both giving their every own interpretation of what the volunteer service and program has done for them. It was an enjoyable evening and I thank the New Master Gardeners for their dedication in completing their internship. I know they will share their knowledge with the Community and I hope they continue be a part of this Association.

Wildscaping

2009-10-14T16:57:00.000-05:00

The RGV Birding Festival has tons of fields trips planned - I hope to take a canoe trip down the Rio Grande this year.

If you are into Wildscapes - or gardening to attract birds and other wildlife to your yard - this one may be for you!

WILDSCAPING                                Fee $35
Saturday / 8am – 12pm

Isn’t it fun to see other people’s creative landscaping? That’s what we do on this entertaining excursion, visiting the yards of local nature enthusiasts, and learning how to use native plants, ornamentals, and water features to attract and provide homes for birds, butterflies, and other critters.

Facts: Moderate walking, mostly flat on grass, dirt, pavement. Restrooms not available at most sites. Shade and sun. Insects possible.

You can check out all the field trips here.

FYI - The RGV Birding Festival is scheduled for November 12-15 in Harlingen, Texas.   If you aren't able to participate in any of the field trips or lectures, the Trade Show is worth a visit. Lots to do for kiddos and adults alike!   While you're there drop by the Cameron County Master Gardener booth. We'll have some gardening information and we'll be selling a huge variety of herbs.

Wordless Wednesday

2009-10-14T14:02:00.000-05:00

Gardening for Butterflies - Taffy's Tips

2009-10-12T09:44:00.003-05:00

We feel bad for those of you who weren't able to attend Taffy Herridge's terrific presentation on "Gardening for Butterflies" last Saturday at The Arboretum.  Here's a little of the information she shared.

South Texas Butterfly Gardening Tips
1. Start your garden with proven nectar-rich flowering plants.
2. Plant the larval foods (the ones the caterpillars munch on) for those butterflies you wish to keep.
3. Use native varieties, if possible - varieties from other localities are second-best.
4. Never use insecticides.   Deter pests with biological agents or sticky traps.
5. Avoid artificial fertilizer.   Use organic fertilizers or compost.
6. Never use herbicides. Weed your garden by hand.
7. Provide a watering hole to allow mud-puddling of the butterflies.
8. Arrange to have shelter from the wind.
9. Use a sunny spot. Plants produce more nectar in the sun.
10. Place some large rocks around for the butterflies to sun themselves on.
11. Plants started from March through th esummer will need sufficient mulch to prevent water loss.
12. Don't trim shrubs after August 1st. Trimming later cuts down on blooms and you could haul off chrysalis.

The following plants will furnish larval food and nectar for the adults all year round.

Nectar Sources for Butterflies
Buddleia                    Lippia                      Turk's Cap
Verbena                    Penta                        Mistflower
Sunflower                 Kidneywood             White Brush
Frogfruit                   Milkweed                 Goldenrod
Indian Blanket          Pavonia                     Baby Bonnets
Abutilon                   Plumbago                  Salvia
Sweet Stem             Lantana                     Pyramid Bush
Scarlet Sage            Duranta                     Zinnias

Host Plants for Caterpillars
Butterfly (Caterpillar) - Host Plant
Pipevine Swallowtail - Pipevine
Giant Swallowtail - Colima, Amyris, Barreta
Checkered White - Mustards
Southern Dogface - Amorpha, Dalea
Large Orange Sulpher - Texas Ebony
Lyside Sulpher - Guayacan
Little Yellow - Cassia
Mallow Scrub-Hairstreak - Sida, Abutilon, Hibiscus
Western Pygmy Blue - Saltbush, Pigweed

Reakirt's Blue - Kidneywood, Mesquite

American Snout - Granjeno

Gulf Fritillary, Julia, Zebra - Passionvines

Bordered Patch - Sunflower, Mistflower

Texan Crescent - Ruellia

Red Admiral - Nettles

White Peacock - Lippia, Ruellia, Frogfruit

Tropical Leafwing - Crotons

Tawny Emperor - Sugar Hackberry

Monarch, Queen, Soldier - Milkweed

Whitepatch Skipper - Manzanita

Frogfruit

Taffy's Favorite Butterfly Plants

Common Name / Scientific Name / Host / Bloom period

Blue Mistflower / Eupatorium odoratum / Rounded Metalmark / Oct-Nov

Betony Mistflower / Eupatorium betonififiolium / Rounded Metalmark / Spring-Fall

Texas Lantana / Lantana horrida / _____/ Spring - Fall

Desert Lantana / Lantana macropoda / Gray Hairstreek / Most times

West Indies Lantana / Lantana camara / __ / Most times

Mexican Butterfly Weed / __ / Monarch, Queen, Soldier / Most times

Passion Vine / Passiflora foetida / Gulf Fritillary / Spring - Fall

Corky Passionflower / Passiflora suberosa / Zebra, Julia Heloconia / Fall

Heliotrope / Heliotrope / Adult Nectar Plant

Texas Frogfruit / Phyla incisa / White Peacock, Phaon Crescent/ Spring - Fall

March Fleabana / Pluchea dorata / Nectar Plant / Summer

Fennel & Rue / __ / Black Swallowtail /

Candlestick Tree / Cassia alata / Most Sulphers /

Interesting Butterfly Links

North American Butterfly Association (NABA)

Valley Nature Center

David & Jan Dauphin

Butterfly Festival, Mission, Texas October 22-24, 2009

October To-Do List for South Texas Gardeners

2009-10-01T09:39:00.001-05:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: calendula, daylilies, geraniums, iris (Dutch bulbs) petunias, ranunculus bulbs, stocks, impatiens, anembulbs, pansies, snapdragons.

Trees: montezuma bald cypress, black willow, granjeno, sugar hackberry, cedar elm, tenaza, Texas huisache, Wright’s catclaw.

Shrubs: hibiscus, cenizo or purple sage, bougainvillea, Drummond’s Turk’s cap, blackbrush, chapotillo, chilipiquin, white brush.

Vegetables: beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards, onions, spinach.

Herbs: basil, chervil, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, garlic chives, Mexican marigold, mint, parsley, rue, rosemary, sage, spinach, thyme.

Reminder:
- Spray citrus trees for scale, mites and fungal diseases with a combination insecticide, miticide, fungicide spray. See your local nursery or garden center for advice and materials. Remember to read and follow directions and all precautions. NOTE: before spraying see if you have beneficial insects working for you. Call the Cameron County Extension office for more information.
-Fall budding should occur this month.
-Last fertilizer application for mums and poinsettias.
-Mulch around the base of newly plants trees and shrubs.
-Prepare the soil for your rose garden. Use a soil conditioner with gypsum to improve soil drainage. Read the November 1st article on ‘Roses, Planting and Care’.
-Prepare you flower gardens for bulb planting. Bulbs like a well drained soil so use gypsum and peatmoss or well rotted compost.
-Check indoor plants for scale and mealy bug.
-Fertilize your 6 to 8 week old vegetables with ammonium nitrate.
-Watch for leaf worm and beetles on vegetables late in October.
-Harvest: squash, cucumbers, greens, beans, citrus and avocados.
-See your local Texas Certified Nursery Professional for additional expert information on local gardening and landscaping.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, PO 1433, Edinburg, TX)

Bromeliads

2009-09-15T19:12:00.015-05:00

Bromeliads are one of my favorite type of tropical plant and can be found growing in mostly tropical or warm climates. The best known is the pineapple plant. There are many varieties of bromeliads which can be grown in many different mediums, some can even grow in no medium. Bromeliads come in many different shapes and size. I first fell in love with them growing in South Florida and found how easy they were to grow and multiply. I enjoyed the fact that the flowers bloomed from the middle of the plants. I have heard them sometimes referred to as the 'living vase'. Not sure if it's due to the fact that water stored in the center cup can be used as a vase for cut flowers or the flower growing from the middle caused the plant to look like a vase.

Compost -Black Magic

2009-09-15T19:12:00.013-05:00

October is time for Black Magic in the Garden. For us gardeners, the Black Magic I am talking about is compost. I recommend top dressing your garden beds with a layer of compost seasonally to reinvigorate your plants. Now that our weather is getting cooler, and we are finally getting some rain, most of our plants can use a boost.
Compost helps with soil structure and adds nutrients to the soil. It is easy to make your own compost,
On October 10, the Master Gardeners will be sponsoring a plant sale and compost demonstration at the Arboretum located at the corner of Williams Road and Expressway 77 in San Benito. Taffy Herridge will present a program on butterfly gardening. Master Gardeners will be on hand to answer your gardening questions. The excitement starts at 9:00. Hope to see you there!

Newcomer to the lower Rio Grande Valley

2009-09-03T15:20:00.006-05:00

I moved to the lower Rio Grande Valley just a year ago. I've been a gardener for most of my life but this is definitely a new experience for me. I've had summer gardens in the high desert of Nevada and fertile loam soils of Iowa and South Dakota. The RGV is a very different place to garden! If I hadn't joined the Cameron County Master Gardeners program, I would not have know that you just basically just keep your plants alive in the summer and prepare your beds for fall, winter and spring planting.

I moved into a house on a 60 by 130 foot lot that had been planted with a Bermuda grass lawn with a sprinkler system designed to water a lawn only with no thought of trees or garden areas. I knew from the start the I needed patience, knowledge and a plan.

The first thing I did was draw up a plot of the yard with the location of the sprinkler heads and what zones they were on. At first I tried to design my yard to fit the system but then I realized a sprinkler system should be designed to fit your yard. A good system should have sprinkler heads of the same type on the same line. Mine does not. I talked to the person who installed the system and he didn't have a diagram of what had been done or could he tell me how deep the lines were buried.

The first thing I did this spring was plot what areas of the yard had full sun. I realized this was a waste of time since with no trees it will be at least ten years before I have to worry about too much shade. Now I'm looking at where there is shade for part of the day as most plants that require full sun in other areas thrive on 6 hours of sun in this area.

I've included a picture of the corner of my back yard as this is the area where I plan to begin. As you can see by my drawing, this location has no sprinkler heads so will be doing hand watering until my sprinkler system can be adapted or I install a separate drip line. I plan to use mainly native plants in this area with an emphasis on attracting butterflies and hummingbirds.

I will be posting additional pictures and plans in the next few weeks.

Native Plant Sale

2009-09-02T10:43:00.003-05:00

Valley Nature Center
Native Plant Sale!!!

Effective September 1st, 2009, there will be an official TEXAS NATIVE PLANT WEEK, celebrated annually the third week in October. In celebration of this legislation The Valley Nature Center located in Weslaco, on 301 S. Border Ave., will be selling our 1 gallon, well established, native plants for only $3.50 a plant.

TEXAS NATIVE PLANT WEEK may now be regularly observed in public schools and other places with programs that appreciate, explore and study Texas Native plants.

The VNC will be selling native plants from September 1st through 15th in celebration of the new Texas State Act, then again during TEXAS NATIVE PLANT WEEK which is the third full week of October. So start planning your garden now, using these wonderful, drought resistant, wildlife friendly plants! For more information please contact the Valley Nature Center at 956-969-2475 or come by and visit. VNC staff will help pick the plants that are right for you!

What is This Critter

2009-09-02T09:27:00.046-05:00

Botanical name Ficus Benjamina

These small bugs showed up in the valley about five years ago and have returned each spring. They attack only ficus plants.

There is a little black bug that attacks ficus plants. It is about 1/32 inch long.
This animal is narrow, I cannot see its legs but it moves rather quickly. I have not seen it fly. It causes new leaves to fold up and the edges curl. When the leaf is opened there are tiny yellow specks that look like fine sand.
I have been to several nurseries with mixed results, no answers.
One place suggested Bodine Systemic, granules or liquid.
What are we dealing with?

The Future Rose Garden at the Arboretum

2009-09-02T09:27:00.044-05:00

At the Arboretum the Master Gardeners would like to plan on having a Demonstration Rose Garden. We hope to be to have different varieties of roses whether they will be hybrid teas, floribundas, grandiflora, heirloom, polyantha, species and or antique roses. The decision will be up to the group which will be a chore in itself. The preparation of the beds will be the most important part for this demonstration garden. The rose above is a Black Cherry Floribunda that was placed in the ground in my garden about 2 years ago. The bed was dug about 4 feet deep to remove the clay soil where the garden soil and compost that was purchased from the local City Service was placed. In our area they sell the medium by carload , truckload or bucket load as needed. The Rose Bed to my garden has mostly floribunda's which I prefer because of the abundance of flowers. In years past most floribunda's were not fragrant, however more varieties have been introduced. Websites that I find most helpful in making my decision are the Houston Rose Society and Jackson and Perkins.

August To-Do List for Deep South Texas Gardeners

2009-08-24T15:27:00.000-05:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: night and day purslane, moss rose, vinca, Ice plant, Joseph’s coat,
salvia, Mexican heather, Katie ruellia, gerbera daisy, dusty miller,
gazania, coreopsis, caladium, coleus, celosia.

Trees: During hot months, container grown trees are safest to plant! But if you must buy balled
and burlapped trees, make sure the tree is green and healthy.

Natives: Live oak, ebony, huisache, retama, brazil, mesquite, Wild Olive, la coma

Non-native: crepe myrtle.

Palms: Texas Sabal Palms, Cocus plumosa or Queen Palm, Mediterranean Fan Palm, Chinese Fan Palm, Sago Palm, Mexican Fan or Washingtonia, California Fan Palm or Washingtonia.

Shrubs: Natives manzanita (barbados cherry), lantana, hachinal ,coral bean,
yucca, butterfly bush (buddleia), wild petunia (ruellia), chilipiquin,
dwarf-yaupon holly, cenizo, salvias, Turk’s cap.

Non-native bougainvillea, plumbago, hibiscus, butterfly weed,
cape honeysuckle, pittosporum, viburnum.

Note: most of these shrubs, especially the native shrubs, attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden.

Vegetables: Sweet corn, okra, eggplant, peppers, pumpkin, tomatoes (give
tomatoes afternoon shade).

Herbs: Lemon grass, mint, sage, tansy, yarrow, basil, Mexican mint marigold
(tarragon).

Remember:

-Lookout for grubs in your garden and lawn; use a granular insecticide, like Dursban for control.

-August is the time for the appearance of whiteflies, especially after cotton harvest, use insecticidal soap spray on top and under leaves for control.

-When planting trees, shrubs, flowers and herbs use mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture.

-Water recently planted materials once or twice a week and water deeply.

-Keep all flower beds and vegetable garden areas free of weeds so they don’t compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients.

-Add 1 inch of organic matter to your gardens and beds, work it in.

-August is the time you to need to prepare the ground for your fall vegetable garden. Start loosening the soil and adding compost from your compost heap.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the Lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, PO Box 1433, Edinburg, TX)

July To-Do List for Deep South Texas Gardeners

2009-07-06T19:33:00.000-05:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: night and day purslane, moss rose, vinca, Ice plant, Joseph’s coat,
salvia, Mexican heather, ruellia, gerbera daisy, dusty miller, gazania,
coreopsis, caladium, coleus, celosia.

Trees: Plant container grown trees only! But if must buy trees with root balls
wrapped in burlap, make sure the tree is green and healthy.
Anacua Tree in bloom

Natives: Mountain Laurel, guayacan, guajillo, live oak, anacua, Rio
Grande ash, mesquite, retama, wild olive, black willow.

Non-native: Cottonwood, crepe myrtle, weeping willow.

Shrubs: Natives manzanita (barbados cherry), lantana, hachinal ,coral bean,
yucca, butterfly bush (buddleia), wild petunia (ruellia), chilipiquin,
dwarf-youpon holly.

Bougainvillea

Non-native bougainvillea, plumbago, hibiscus, butterfly weed,
cape honeysuckle, pittosporum, ligustrum sage.

Note: most of these shrubs, especially the native shrubs, attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden.

Vegetables: Cauliflower, cucumber, eggplant, okra, peppers, pumpkin.

Herbs: Thyme, rosemary, rue, anise, borage, basil, bay, garlic, parsely,
Mexican mint marigold (tarragon).

Remember:

-When planting trees, shrubs, flowers and herbs use mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture.

-Water recently planted materials once or twice a week and water deeply.

-Watch for grub worms in your lawns and gardens Use a granular insecticide, like Dursban, or Diazion.

-Keep all flower beds and vegetable garden areas free of weeds so they don’t compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients.

-Add 1 inch of organic matter to your gardens and beds, work it in.

-Regularly check for whitefly and aphids, control with soapy water spray. Be sure to spray under the leaves.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the Lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, PO Box 1433, Edinburg, TX)

June To-Do List for Deep South Texas Gardeners

2009-06-19T10:05:00.000-05:00

Time to plant:

Flowers: Mexican heather, ruellia, gerbera daisy, dusty miller,
gazania, vinca, night and day purslane, iceplant, moss rose,
caladium, coleus, celosia.

Trees: Natives: live oak, anacua, Rio Grande ash, mesquite, retama, wild
olive.

Non-native: Cottonwood, crepe myrtle.

Palms: Palms are best planted during warm months.

Shrubs: bougainvillea, plumbago, manzanita (barbados cherry), lantana,
hachinal ,coral bean, yucca, butterfly bush (buddleia) butterfly weed,
wild petunia (ruellia), hibiscus. Note: most of these shrubs attract
butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden.

Vegetables: Peppers.

Herbs: mint, rosemary, rue, oregano, hierba buena.

Reminders:

-When planting trees, shrubs, flowers and herbs use mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture.

-Water recently planted materials once or twice a week and water deeply.

-Your potted plants may need daily or every-other-day watering. The larger the pot, the longer it can go between waterings.

-Try to give your tomatoes afternoon shade.

-Keep all flower beds and vegetable garden areas free of weeds so they don’t compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients.

-Regularly check for whitefly and aphids, control with soapy water spray or insecticidal soap. Be sure to spray under the leaves.

-Check for grubs in your lawn. Brown patches are an indicator. Control with a granular insecticide such as Dursban or Diazinon.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the Lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, PO Box 1433, Edinburg, TX)

Bermuda Grass

2009-05-19T16:00:00.000-05:00

I live in Brownsville and have clay soil in my backyard where I have been growing Bermuda Grass. I do have some brown patches where there is no grass growing. I was wondering if I needed to amend the soil and raise the pH a bit. Do you have any suggestions? Ruben P, Brownsville

Dr. Enrique Perez, Cameron County Extension agent, wrote that this maybe be a regular hot spot in which this area is so compact that there maybe no aeration or moisture for the roots. High clay turf areas have this symptom. "I recommend some aeration, and providing organic matter to the area. This will help in forming a more porous soil to improve filtration for both air, water and nutrients needed for plant growth and development. You may want to have a soil test done for the problem areas. This will give you the nutritional values of the area."
A local turf specialist, Jimmy Wilson, MS in turf management from Texas A&M, states that Bermuda Grass is extremely hardy and should be able to withstand most soil and environmental conditions in the Valley. Amending the soil to change the ph would only be a temporary solution and would be a constant job. Most often problems with grass in the Lower Rio Grande Valley are due to cultural practices of grass selection for that particular site. If the rest of the lawn looks healthy, shade or water are the most likely culprits. To check water, the pros use a soil probe (but you could use a hand trowel) to dig down and sample the soil. If the soil is dry below a 1/4 of an inch or so, it's too dry. Try watering deeply - an inch of water in the early morning hours every week in the summer months. If the spots are in shady areas, try trimming back nearby trees to let in some more light. Bermuda needs FULL sun to really thrive. That said, whether your soil has clay or sand, topdressing with compost over the entire yard would be beneficial and is recommended.

Return to "Ask a Master Gardener".

Plants for La Feria

2009-05-19T11:28:00.000-05:00

Are red yuccas, autumn sage, and mexican feather grass good choices for our landscape in La Feria? - R.D. Trimble, La Feria

Both Red Yucca, Hesperaloe parviflora, and Autumn Sage,Salvia greggii are accepted good performers in the Lower Rio Grande Valley. However, there are mixed reviews on Mexican Feather Grass.

Mexican Feather Grass, or Silky Thread Grass, Needle Grass, or Pony Tails, Stipa tenuissima is a self seeder that is considered invasive in some areas. It produces large numbers of seed that blow in the wind. On Dave's Garden one person stated that her six plants quickly became a hundred. Another, whose Mexican Feather Grass was planted beside her pool, complained that the seeds clogged the skimmers and pool cleaning apparatus. All the "free" plants from self-sowing plants can be nice - but often it adds alot to your weeding chores.
Purple fountain grass, Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum', would be a good alternative. You propagate it by dividing the root ball.

Choose a well-drained location for both Red Yucca and and Autumn Sage (also known as Texas Sage or Gregg's Sage). These are desert plants that do not like "wet feet". Hummingbirds and butterflies will be attracted to both of these plants. Autumn Sage is a
self-sowing plant but not prolifically.

Return to the "Ask a Master Gardener".

Touring Ceyanes' Native Garden

2009-05-12T13:47:00.000-05:00

Join the Cameron County Master Gardeners for a tour of Helen Ceyanes' Native Garden on Saturday, May 16th. Beginning at 10 am, we will be able to wander the improved pathways that run throughout the seven acre property. Yes, that is not a typo - this is a SEVEN acre property - Ms. Ceyanes has divided it into different "gardens" - she has an prairie and a Palm garden to name a few.

MG Interns Anna, Sheila, and Tomara have already toured this private sanctuary. They should have some great information to share with us on Saturday!

Beautiful native lantanas should attract a nice number of hummingbirds and butterflies.

Identifying signage will help us learn some more of our natives. Dr. Alfred Richardson, the author of Plants of the Rio Grande Delta and Wildflowers and Other Plants of Texas Beaches and Islands (to name a few) will give a short program on our native trees and plants. This is sure to be a fun and educationation morning! Hope to see you there. And if you can't attend, check back here next week. We'll post a little info on our visit to Helen Ceyanes' Native Garden.

Trees for the Valley

2009-03-25T15:57:00.000-05:00

We moved to the Valley last May and are in the process of creating the landscaping for our new home. Can you recommend vendors for trees? I have been to various garden centers in Harlingen and McAllen and find very few choices. I'm looking for shade trees and ornamentals like crape myrtle, preferably nice sized. I would also be interested in looking at Texas Palo Verde. - Sandra

Wild Olive above.

Sandra - I'm sorry that we can't recommend particular vendors - but we do have some advice for you before you go out to purchase a tree.

Determine what type(s) of trees you want. Two excellent sources are available both in print and online. Valley Proud Environmental Council puts out a booklet entitled, A Guide to Growing Healthy Trees in the Lower Rio Grande Valley of Texas. This guide includes valuable information on purchasing, planting, pruning, and other general tree care. The Native Plant Project publishes a booklet, Native Trees of the Lower Rio Grande Valley Texas, which describes 28 native species.

Everyone is familiar with Live Oak and Ashe, as they are good performers here and thus very common. A couple varieties you may want to consider are Cedar Elm, Texas Ebony, Chapote (or Texas Persimmon), and Anacua. Be advised that the Ebony is thorny and produces large, hard seedpods and the Anacua (pictured here) tends to drop small branches on windy day. Cedar Elm has a hint of color in the late fall. If you want a tropical tree, watch for the following that grow well here: Jacaranda (irridescent purple, late spring bloom), Royal Poinciana (orange & red, late spring bloom), Orchids (white, purple, pink, early spring bloomer), or Kapok (pink, late summer/early fall bloom).

The varieties pictured at the right of this blog are currently growing in our Arboretum. Feel free to drop by and check them out. You can click on each of the pictures to get additional information on each individual tree.

After you've narrowed your choices down to 2 or 3, contact area garden centers to locate the tree of your dreams. If you want a large specimen, you may want to consider hiring someone with the equipment and expertise to plant it. Don't rush this process. Tree are usually the largest investment of any plant in your landscape. They are best installed in the Rio Grande Valley between the months of October and April. Our high summer temperatures make it hard for a newly planted tree to become established in the landscape during that time.

Return to "Ask a Master Gardener".

Laying Drip Irrigation

2009-03-02T07:54:00.000-06:00

Compost Demonstration Site

2009-02-28T09:44:00.000-06:00

We are nearly done with the construction phase of our Compost Demonstration Site. Many thanks to the Lower Rio Grande Valley Development Council for the grant that is funding this project! Signage, one more composter, and some more plants are all that remains until this construction phase is complete. Come by and learn how to compost your household and yard waste - It's good for the environment - It's good for your pocketbook - and it's good for your garden!

Peaches for the Rio Grande Valley

2009-02-24T15:38:00.000-06:00

Please, can you tell me what "brand" of peach tree will produce fruit here in Cameron County? We are wanting to purchase at least one this Spring. Dana

Dr Enrique Perez, Cameron County Extension Agent, writes: Back in the mid 80's a group of Starr County producers established an orchard on approximately 75 acres. The varieties adapted to the area or chosen due to chilling hours were EarliGrande and Rio Grande. From my evaluation, these two varieties performed well. A chilling requirement of a certain number of hours of winter temperatures between 32° to 45° F is needed to break dormancy and induce normal bloom and vegetative growth. This chilling requirements caused some problems for the commercial producer in terms of size and yield. But for a home owner this may not be an issue. The other problem is cotton root rot disease which exist through the Rio Grande Valley. Also, we have the issue of pH in the soil. Our soils here are alkaline. Peach varieties have a problem with alkaline soils. The life span for production of these trees are from 5 to 10 years.

One Master Gardener shares that she has had great success with the EarlyGrande variety. It sets lots of small to medium fruit. She gives it minimal care: water, a little pruning and a little horse manure on occasion. Her tree came from Grimsell's Nursery in Harlingen. Rivers End Nursery in Bayview specializes in fruit trees. The varieties they list in their newsletter are Tropic Beauty, Tropic Snow and Florida Glow. They grow what they sell and can give you specific information about each variety. Most local garden centers will stock peach trees during the spring. Their staffs tend to be knowledgable on varieties that do well in the Rio Grande Valley.

For more information on Peach Production in Texas, check out Aggie Horticulture.

Return to "Ask a Master Gardener".

2009-02-18T11:17:00.001-06:00

One of the weekly tasks at the Compost Demonstration Site is turning the compost piles. In Week 1, the Master Gardener Interns put most of the material through the chipper/shredder and refilled the bins, sprinkling the material as they went. The bins are currently heavy on brown stuff (carbon) - but members help keep the Compost Demonstration Site supplied with green stuff (nitrogen) by bringing trimmings from their homes and gardens, and old fruit and vegetables from fruit stands.

Week 2, the piles are warm to the touch - so we know they are "cooking". We have found it is easier to empty the entire bin and turn or mix it in the open ground. Then it is reassembled, adding water as needed. Remember, our compost piles should be damp to the touch - like a wrung-out sponge.

We've also been rustling leaves . . . . Our last few bags are leaning against the storage shed in the photo above. Any bagged leaves left on the curb are likely to be snatched and added to the demonstration.

It is amazing how fast we are making compost now that we are turning the piles every week!

Recycling Your Dolly & Ike Debris

2008-10-23T11:30:00.000-05:00

Wood fences are very apt to be destroyed in the high winds of a hurricane. If you live in deep south Texas (Hurricane Dolly in July) or the Houston or Galveston area (Hurricane Ike in September), chances are you may have a stack of fence boards waiting for the refuse removers to pick up. Walt brought his to The Arboretum yesterday and made this nifty compost bin! It is a 4 foot cube.Walt had already constructed the two sides with the slatted boards. It's pretty nifty how the angled boards keep your compost ingredients in the bin while allowing for some ventilation. If you are inexperienced with carpentry like I am, you can always make all four sides solid. Just drill a few holes in the boards. Walt connected his two pre-constructed sides with 4' fence boards. Not only did he end up with a compost bin that would look great in any yard, he kept these wooden boards out of the landfill!

Here's a close-up view of the sides. Just cut triangular pieces to set the slats an an angle.

And don't worry if your fence didn't blow down. I'll be you have a neighbor who would love for you to haul off their old boards.

Composting - It Ain't Rocket Science

2008-10-03T12:59:00.000-05:00

We began setting up a few of the compost bins for the educational programs (and to enrich our garden). The one in the foreground is one distributed by many Valley cities a few years ago. It is an open plastic mesh bin. It is not real firm, but once it has some been filled, it will stand on its own. We attached it to some step-on fence posts to stabilize it. Behind the plastic bin, you see a simple open bin made out of a stiff wire fencing. It took less than 10 minutes to build and the supplies cost less than $27. You will need about 12 feet of 36" wide wire fencing, 4 or 5 zip ties (or wire or twine to close the ends) and 3 or 4 posts. This is easiest made with two or three persons. Be sure to wear heavy gloves when working with this wire fencing. Unroll the wire fencing upside down on level ground and walk on it to flatten it out. Form the fencing into a circle. Connect the ends with wire, twine or zip ties. To keep it from blowing around in our high winds, attach it to the fence posts.

The bin we are assembling at the left is a 170 gallon plastic pre-fab bin . It is made from 100% recycled materials and required no tools for assembly. We purchased it online from The Home Depot and it arrived in five days. This company also makes a smaller 90 gallon version.

Lining up the panels took a minimum of 2 persons - and the final panel was totally a group effort! (see the picture below)

It has a lid and is sturdy. The one downside is moving it around in the garden. You have to be very careful or it will fall apart on you and then you're back at square one lining up the panels.

And now we begin the compost pile! Everyone brought raw materials from home - grass clippings, shredded paper, kitchen waste, dried ebony leaves, garden trimmings and small twigs. Roger demonstrated the building of a compost pile and discussed what goes in and what should stay out! We also discussed the 30:1 carbon:nitrogen ratio.
Debbie got the award for the "Best Composting Attire" - and we all yearned for her mosquito netting since we are still dealing with our post Hurricane Dolly mosquitoes.

Construction begins on Outdoor Classroom

2008-10-01T07:51:00.000-05:00

It looks like things will get worse before they get better - at least when it comes to the looks of the Compost Demonstration Site. But how exciting to see dirt moving equipment in The Arboretum this morning! The footprint of the slab was moved back a bit from the original plan - so we'll have to move one of the Cedar Elms, Ulmus crassifolia. The Compost Education Committee is working diligently on the presentations to be given here.

Master Gardeners To Meet at Palm Gardens Nursery in Brownsville

2008-09-29T17:42:00.000-05:00

On Saturday, October 18th at 9 am, the Cameron County Master Gardeners will be meeting at Morris Clint's Palm Gardens Nursery. You won't want to miss hearing what Mr. Clint has to share with us. He is one of the most knowledgable gardeners and nurserymen in our area. Palm Gardens Nursery is located at 345 Galveston Road in Brownsville. For a map, follow this link.

All gardeners are welcome to attend.

Trees, trees, trees

2008-09-25T08:51:00.000-05:00

Rainforest Wholesale Nursery in Harlingen donated a couple hundred small Live Oaks, Quercus virginiana and Montezuma Bald Cypress, Taxodium mucronatum trees to the Cameron County Master Gardeners. Live Oaks are native to the "ranch country" in the northern Rio Grande Valley. The Montezuma Bald Cypress is another Valley native that thrives along waterways. A private home in San Benito happens to be home to the national champion Montezuma Bald Cypress. We'll use these trees either to promote The Arboretum or sell them and use the funds for Arboretum expenses. The City of San Benito, one of our partners in the Compost Demonstration Site, loaded up a number of the trees for use in their parks along the Resaca de los Fresnos. Won't those Montezuma Bald Cypress look majestic in 10 or 20 years!

The first scheduled "moving day" was last June. But we were rained out. Since then we planned to pick up our wonderful gift two other times - each time it RAINED and we postponed. It's now the end of September and you can't imagine how excited we are to finally get our hands on those trees! Many thanks to Perin and Jose for their equipment and manpower.

We do have work to do on these trees - staking, fertilizing, trimming and training - and in the process, learning a little bit more. . . . Watch this site for a planned work day. Until then, they are safe under an automatic watering system at a member's nursery.

So Long, Dolly!

2008-08-11T21:17:00.000-05:00

When we were making plans for The Arboretum last summer, we never even considered the possibility of receiving 25 inches of rain within a three week period! Our Fourth of July weekend monsoon, followed by Hurricane Dolly's winds and rains were a one-two punch. On the bright side, we know without a shadow of a doubt where our drainage issues lie. Braving the hoards of mosquitoes, Floyd has worked diligently in the garden trying to undo the storm's damage to our Native Forest. He's checking out a Retama, Parkinsenis aculeata.

Elizabeth surveyed the Texas Mountain Laurels, Sophora secundaflora, and decided to take a wait and see approach. Mountain Laurels have a sparse root system, thus, heavy winds can do considerable damage to them. But, they also don't like to "get their feet wet"; we'll hope as the ground dries, some new leaves will flush.
We did have to say "adios" to this Brasil, Condalia hookeri. We had been babying her since she sustained wind damage last Spring.
This Wild Olive, Cordia boissierri is another tree that doesn't like wet feet - and 25 inches of rain in July was more than she wanted.
But this is fresh growth on another of the Wild Olives in The Arboretum. We'll just have to wait and see how all the trees recover from Dolly. Even though we chose to plant drought tolerant trees, the fact that they are native to the Lower Rio Grande Valley is a plus!

Rain's Aftermath

2008-07-16T21:55:00.000-05:00

Stopped by the Arboretum on Friday, July 11th to see how everything had fared after the recent record rainfall earlier in the week. I was told that the Arboretum rain gauge topped out at 8 inches! The rain is certainly welcome after months of scant precipitation. However, the sheer amount that fell has left the Arboretum a muddy, swampy mess.

This is the low lying area where Butterfly Plot 4 is located.

Despite being wet in many areas, other spots have dried very quickly under the scorching sun, revealing the signature cracking of clay soil.

Mosquitoes abound with all the standing water. This particular girl decided to make a meal of my arm, ensuring the future of her eggs. DEET? What's that? These RGV mosquitoes are evidently immune.

On a lighter note, the Brasil tree which was planted at the ground-breaking ceremony, that subsequently took a tumble and was replanted, has been slowly recovering and is leafing out quite nicely.

"Gardening" with heavy machinery

2008-05-15T13:30:00.000-05:00

At times, heavy machinery trumps an experienced gardener. Cameron County assisted us in spreading the ever growing mulch pile in the "Valley Native Forest" area of The Arboretum. As skilled as the backhoe operator was, he still needed our assistance in distributing it evenly over the area. Here Bonnie takes a bit of a breather.

Interns George and Norman drove up from Brownsville for a morning of helping.

As did Mary. . . . . Walt, a Tuesday morning regular, made sure all the trees received a nice drink of water. There is an everychanging group that meets every Tuesday morning. As the temperatures have risen, we've begun arriving earlier and earlier - there's always someone here by 8:30. If you arrive first, I'm sure you can find something that needs a bit of TLC. Check the sidebar of this blog, for our current To-Do list.

Anacua

2008-04-23T09:46:00.000-05:00

Anacua, Ehretia anacua, is a must have for any homeowner wanting to attract wildlife to their garden. We have planted two in the south-east corner of the Arboretum. A few of Anacua's many common names are Sugarberry, Knockaway, and Sandpaper Tree. The latter describes the rough texture of its leaves. Cold hardy to zone 8, Anacua can grow to 50 feet tall and its canopy will be almost as wide as it is tall. As an established tree, it is very drought tolerant.

A mature tree will have a highly textured, gnarled trunk, and will often be multi-trunked. The foliage is dark green and extremely dense.

Be sure to plant Anacua in a well-drained location. It requires little or no fertilizer. It is considered evergreen but will drop some or all of its leaves for a short period during the winter.

Anacua tends to have one big flush of blooms in the spring with the thick clusters of white fragrant blooms heavily covering the tree. After a summer rain, some trees will bloom again. You may have one tree in an area bloom and the others not. In our last house, we had a gorgeous multi-trunked Anacua. Inevitably only half of the tree bloomed - and then a few weeks later, the other half would decide it should put on a few blooms too. I imagine I am wrong when I describe it as multi-trunked. It must have been multiple trees that sprouted close to each other. Butterflies and bees love Anacua blooms as much as I do.

These immature fruits will ripen to a bright orange from April to June. The branches will droop with the weight of the fruit. The fruit drop can be messy, so don't plant Anacua where it will grow over paved areas. Birds feed on these berry's and nest in Anacua's dense foliage.

Raised Beds

2008-04-21T21:10:00.001-05:00

Thanks to the 2008 MG class, the first of the Arboretum's demonstration beds have been built! Ned Lynn from Hidalgo County led them through the process.

The perimeter of the vegetable beds were marked, then re-measure for accuracy. The corners were marked with flags. All vegetation was removed from the beds before the first timber was put into place.

The ends of the first layer of landscape timbers should be secured with rebar that has been driven through the timber angling toward the center of the timber. Drive the rebar into the ground a foot or two. Lay each layer so that the corners overlap. Secure the second layer of timbers to the first layer with galvanized nails. Continue to the desired height.

The final step is to drive a piece of rebar through all layers and well into the ground. You will want to pre-drill the holes. Now, you should have a secure raised bed.

And We Have Water!

2008-04-05T23:34:00.000-05:00

To a gardener there is nothing more exasperating than a hose that just isn't long enough.- Cecil Roberts
The simple pleasures in life are the best, aren't they? When Colleen called to say she'd passed The Arboretum and the City of San Benito was there trenching for the water lines, I couldn't get there fast enough! (lucky for me, it was on my way to work) Although Cameron County was supportive and helpful, sending their water truck whenever asked, these new lines are essential for the next phases of The Arboretum. Many thanks to the City of San Benito - in particular City Manager Victor Trevino, Utility Director Jaime Rosas and Director of Community Affairs Martha McClain.

Arboretum Plan

2008-03-26T20:39:00.000-05:00

This is the initial overall plan for The Arboretum. Double click on the plan to enlarge it. This garden lays on a lot that measures 250 feet by 150 feet, more or less. The only limitation we have are the power lines that run from the front right to the back left. In order to utilize all the space, we have placed the vegetable garden, butterfly garden and water feature underneath them. Already on the property were the live oak and two mesquite trees - and do we love having those mature trees! With the exception of the colima, all the trees were planted in November of 2007. Understory trees and shrubs will be added and paths will meander through the garden. Signage will make it self-guided for those unable to attend a class or tour. We hope you will check back often to follow our progress.

Tuesdays in the Arboretum

2008-03-20T19:27:00.000-05:00

The new Master Gardener course began this month. At the first class, the MG "interns" were given a tour of The Arboretum with a quick description of the trees. Some of them came out Tuesday morning to help with a little maintanence. Floyd weeded, edged and generally cleaned up some of the beds. This Wild Olive, Anacuahita, looked awesome when he was done!

Walt and Doss both worked with the mulch spreading crew. We made a pretty nice size dent in our huge pile of mulch!

There is a group that meets every Tuesday morning to work either in the garden or on the garden (or both!) Any Master Gardener can get an hour or two of work in at their convenience. The gates to the County Annex are open all day Monday through Friday and on Saturday mornings. Chris will be coordinating Saturday workdays each month.

Some of the bluebonnet seed we spread in December sprouted! (Even though December is really too late to sow wildflower seed in Deep South Texas - we just got lucky). This is our first bloom.

Mulch and More Mulch

2007-12-30T18:23:00.000-06:00

AEP and Asplundh brought our first load of mulch in December.

The entire back corner will be a thick layer of mulch. Because these tree trimmings have quite a bit of green material, we will keep it away from the trees and their beds. But it is a wonderful material for our "forest floor". This mulch will also be our initial path material.

Some TLC for the "Forest"

2007-12-10T18:54:00.000-06:00

After the trees had been in the ground for more than a month, it was time to work on their beds. We had taken great care to make sure they were planted at the proper depth - (which is the exact same depth that they had been growing). Click here for instructions from the Texas Forest Service about how to properly plant a tree. We added some compost to the bed and formed a water ring at the drip line. This is a Texas Persimmon, Diospyros texana. It can be identified by its smooth trunk, much like the trunk of a Crepe Myrtle.

This Anacua, Ehretia anacua, looks so well groomed now!

In spite of the lateness, we scattered some wildflower seed in the tree beds.

Our First Planting!

2007-11-19T13:53:00.000-06:00

The Cameron County Master Gardeners were excited to dedicate our new Arboretum on November 13, 2007. The previous August, the Cameron County Commissioners Court dedicated this piece of land for Master Gardener use. Our plan is to create an educational garden using water-wise plants and techniques. In addition to hosting gardening classes, the Arboretum will be a self-guided educational garden. Our first phase is planting the Valley Native Forest. This will include examples of trees that we feel do well in the home landscape - a few of them are well-known but most are not.

Commissioner David Garza shared a few words. The City of San Benito, the San Benito Chamber of Commerce, and the San Benito School District were well represented at the dedication.

The dignitaries and the Arboretum Committee get ready to plant our first tree!

Our first tree to plant was a Brasil Tree. It's a native to our area. Check back at this sight for information on each of the species that we include in this project.

Lastly, we watered our new trees in! It has been a long time since it rained, so this acre was absolutely arid. Large cracks were found all over the heavy clay ground. Thankfully, the county send a water truck that gave each tree a BIG drink of water. See the holes in the background? Each of those - a total of 29 - will hold a tree by the end of the day.