New Blog Address

New Blog Address

Our website now supports both our informational pages and our blog.   You can find us at http://txmg.org/cameron/ 

Julian Sauls' Texas Red Oaks

This seedling is a Texas Red Oak or Quercus shumardii cv texana.   Dr. Julian Sauls and one of his co-workers has been breeding this tree since the 1970s.   They are choosing characteristics that will perform well in the Rio Grande Valley.  

The original selection was from a wild tree somewhere near Breckinridge - that trees location is no longer known.  Seed from the Breckenridge tree were planted in Arlington, Texas in the mid 70s.  Then seed from the Arlington tree were planted in Tyler in the late 70s.  These seedlings came from the Tyler tree.  Unfortunately the Arlington plantings were lost to urban development quite a few years ago.

Dr. Sauls was generous enough to give a number of seedlings to the Cameron County Master Gardeners a few months ago.  It's time to bump them up to a larger container.     In a few years, one should be large enough to transplant into The Arboretum.    Hopefully, we'll have another tree that will perform well in our area!

June Gardening To-Do List

Time to plant:

Flowers: Mexican heather, ruellia, gerbera daisy, dusty miller, gazania, vinca, night and day purslane, iceplant, moss rose, caladium, coleus, celosia.

Trees: Natives: live oak, anacua, Rio Grande ash, mesquite, retama, wild olive.

Non-native: Cottonwood, crepe myrtle. Buy only container grown plants. But if must buy trees with root balls wrapped in burlap, make sure the tree is green and healthy.

Palms:  Summer is the perfect time to plant palms. 
Shrubs: bougainvillea, plumbago, manzanita (barbados cherry), lantana, hachinal ,coral bean, yucca, butterfly bush (buddleia) butterfly weed, wild petunia (ruellia), hibiscus. Note: most of these shrubs attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden.

Vegetables: Peppers.

Herbs: mint, rosemary, rue, oregano, hierba buena.

Remember:
-When planting trees, shrubs, flowers and herbs use mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture.

-Water recently planted materials once or twice a week and water deeply.

-Try to give your tomatoes afternoon shade.

-Keep all flower beds and vegetable garden areas free of weeds so they don’t compete with your plants for moisture and nutrients.

-Add 1 inch of organic matter to your gardens and beds, work it in.

-Regularly check for whitefly and aphids, control with soapy water spray. Be sure to spray under the leaves.

-Check for grubs in your lawn. Brown patches are an indicator. Control with a granular insecticide such as Dursban or Diazinon.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the Lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, PO Box 1433, Edinburg, TX)

Earth-Kind Gardening Seminar

Great info on our upcoming Earth-Kind Landscape and Gardening Seminar!
AgriLife News

Mountain Laurels - What's In A Name?

by Thomas Sullivan, class of 2009
When I first learned of the Texas Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora), I presumed it was related to the Mountain Laurel (Kalamia latifolia), the State Flower of my native Pennsylvania. If these Master Gardner classes have taught me anything, it was not to presume. Research, research, research.

The two mountain laurels share a name and great intrinsic beauty but little else. In some ways, they are direct opposites.

Two examples of the Texas Mountain Laurel

And two examples of the Pennsylvania’s Mountain Laurel:

Family Relatives

The family classifications immediately show how different they are. The Texas Mountain Laurel, while essentially an ornamental, is a member of the legume family, Fabacaeae, which includes important agricultural plants such as soybeans, alfalfa, and peanuts. It is native to the Texas Hill Country and ranges throughout the arid and semi-arid high alkaline soils of Texas, New Mexico, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Hidalgo, and Puebla. Conversely, Pennsylvania’s Mountain Laurel is in the Ericaceae family which is literally “lime-hating”. Its family includes azaleas, rhododendron, blueberries and cranberries. It thrives in the moist acidic suits of the Appalachian Mountains from northern Florida to southern Maine. Unlike the Texas Mountain Laurel which does not tolerate temperatures below 10°, it is extremely cold hardy.

Size, Leaves, and Flowers

Both mountain laurels are spring bloomers, although spring comes significantly later in Pennsylvania. The Texas Mountain Laurel blooms in March and lasts for months. The Pennsylvania variety blooms in late May and peaks in June. By July, it is done.

Each is a shrub or small tree growing 6-15 feet with the Pennsylvanian somewhat larger. There is one on record at 40 feet, but most range less than 20.

Both varieties have gorgeous show-stopping flowers. The Texas Mountain Laurel has purple wisteria-like drop down blossoms with a strong aroma described as grape “Kool-Aid”. Pennsylvania’s Mountain Laurel has large showy clusters of pink/white symmetrical flowers with a deep pink or red center. Both have strong evergreen leaves. They both do best in full sun or light shade although the Pennsylvanian tolerates full shade. Curiously, both are toxic. More on this below.

Propagation and Cultivation

The Texas Mountain Laurel is reportedly tricky to transplant. Container plants may require a year or more to establish themselves and bloom. Seeding appears to be preferred by some authors. Dr. William Welch of Texas A&M suggests planting the seeds while they are still unripe and pink. They should be planted in late June or early July. However, since they do not transplant well, better to plant them where you want them.

Pennsylvania’s Mountain Laurel grows wild through out the Appalachian Mountains and is available commercially in containers. Seeds are small and mature late in the season. At least one author suggested propagation is enhanced by cold-moist stratification.

Toxicity

The leaves of the Texas Mountain Laurel are very poisonous and authors warn parents of small children. This may be connected to the myth generated by the plant’s “other” name, Mescal Bean. The bean is not used in the production of mescal or tequila and does not contain any mescaline. However, it does contain alkaloid cytisne which is chemically related to nicotine.   The seeds are toxic if ingested.

The Pennsylvania Mountain Laurel is another story entirely. The leaves, bark, and all green portions of the plant contain andromedotoxin and arbutin which routinely kill horses, cattle, sheep, and deer. It is related to another variety called “sheep laurel” and “lambkill” which, by it very name, certainly indicates its potency.

The Pennsylvanian by birth and Texan by adoption is hard pressed to pick a favorite. So I will just appreciate the extraordinary beauty of each mountain laurel of my homelands.

Acknowledgments:

Horticulture Update: April 2002. Edited by Douglas F. Welsh, Ph.D.

Landscape Horticulture: William C. Welsh, Ph.D. Texas A & M University

Extension Horticulture: Texas Cooperative Extension, Texas A&M University System.

Fabaceae Family: Master Gardeners of the University of Arizona Pima County Cooperative Extension.

USDA National Resources Conservation Service.

Pennsylvania Botanical Society.

Connecticut Botanical Society.

March To-Do List

Time to plant:


Flowers: ageratum, alyssum, calendula, dianthus, geraniums, kalanchoe, larkspur, Mexican heather, snapdragons, stocks, petunias, vinca.

Trees: Natives: chapote, coma del sur, coyote willow, guayacan, live oak, mescal bean or Texas mountain laurel, retama, Rio Grande ash, tenaza, Texas ebony, Texas sabal Palm.

Shrubs:
Natives: black brush, chapotillo, heart-leaf hibiscus, low croton, manzanita, Mexican trixis, nopal prickly pear, Texas kidneywood, Turk’s cap.

Non-natives (well adapted to Cameron County): dwarf yaupon holly, hibiscus, hybrid lantanas, Japanese boxwood, oleander, pottisporum, shrimp plant, viburnum.

Vegetables: beans (green), lettuce, onions (green), peppers (sweet and hot), radishes, tomatoes, turnips.

Herbs: dill, lavender, all basils, mint, mustard, oregano, parsley, rosemary, spearmint.

Remember:
-Start a weekly check/spray schedule for aphids on roses, hibiscus and other plants. Before spraying check for beneficial ladybugs. ALWAYS read and follow spray label direction for application.
-Till your vegetable garden, add organic matter, pull weeds.
-Add and work in compost to your garden and flower beds.
-Last month to plant roses.
-Take soil samples from your yard and garden for mineral analyses. This is helpful for correct fertilizer applications. Contact the Cameron County Extension Office for details.
-Use mulch when newly planting trees and shrubs.
-Cut Poinsettias to 12 inches above the ground.
-Divide ornamental grasses.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native trees- and Native Shrubs- of the lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, P. O. Box 1433, Edinburg, TX.)

February To-Do List

Time to plant:

Flowers: petunias, ice plant, ruelia (Mexican petunia), Mexican heather, kalanchoes, geraniums, impatients, Gerbera daisies, alyssum, salvia.

Trees: Texas ebony, anaqua, wild olive, live oak, retama, colima, brazil, western soapberry.

Shrubs: Native: Trecul’s yucca, desert yaupon, coral bean, hachinal, black brush, cenizo, chilipiquin, Texas lantana, oregano.

Non-native well adapted to South Texas: Cape honeysuckle, fire cracker, Mexican firebush (Hamelia) salvias, hibiscus, bougainvillea, gardenia, oleander.

Vegetables: broccoli, carrots, melons (cantaloupe and honeydew), peppers (sweet), squash, tomatoes, watermelons.

Herbs: anise, basil, catnip, garlic, mints, parsley (curly and Italian), rue, thyme.

Remember:
- Harvest of some cool season vegetables.
-Don’t put away your freeze protection materials just yet, wait another month.
-Plant roses this month.
-Feed your roses with a systemic insecticide and rose food.
-Acid fertilizer should be applied to acid loving plants.
-Prepare soil for vegetable and flower gardens.
-Use mulch to cover the soil after planting trees, shrubs and bedding plants.

January To-Do List

To-Do List for Cameron County Yards and Gardens


TIME TO PLANT:

Flowers: ageratum, alyssum, amaryllis bulbs, begonias, calendulas, calla lilies, dianthus, gerbera daisies, geraniums, kalanchoes, marigolds, roses, snapdragons, stocks.

Trees: southern live oak, Rio Grande ash, retama, wild olive, tepeguaje, Texas mountain laurel, anaqua, mesquite, Wright’s catclaw, guajillo, Texas paloverde, guayacan.

Shrubs: Native: cenizo or purple sage, low croton, Texas lantana, nopal prickly pear, hachinal, Mexican caesalpinia, Texas baby bonnets, Torrey’s croton, yellow sophora, brush holly.

Non native-cold tolerant: viburnum, pittosporum, Japanese boxwood, Japanese yew, dwarf yaupon holly, waxleaf ligustrum.

Vegetables: leaf lettuce, radishes, potatoes.

Herbs: anise, basil, dill, fennel, mint, rosemary, rue, thyme. Basil can be potted and brought indoors incase of a frost.

REMEMBER:

-Harvest leafy greens, root crops, grapefruit, oranges and tangerines.

-Prune your peach trees,

-Plant rose bushes. Purchase roses for planting that have been grafted on Dr. Huey, California or Mexican rootstock. Antiques roses do well on their own root stock.

-Consider what new trees and shrubs you want to plant. The next three months are a great time to plant trees and shrubs.

-Prune many of your trees and shrubs, now that the leaves have fallen.


(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the Lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, P.O. Box 1433, Edinburg, TX.) .

Potatoes!?

It's a cold Winter day in the Valley, and yet I can't help but think of potatoes. "Why?" you ask, we're about to find out.

The ubiquitous potato (Solanum tuberosum) originates in the Peruvian Andes of South America in Alpine regions where the daytime temperature rarely exceed 70° F. Not surprisingly, it turns out potatoes form tubers optimally at soil temperatures between 60° and 70° F. Tuber formation stops altogether at 80° and above.

So, what does this mean for growing potatoes in the Valley?

As residents of the RGV we are blessed with a warm climate, relatively mild Winters and long growing seasons, but it gets hot here... Very Hot. To top it off spuds can take anywhere from 80 to 120 days to mature depending on the variety. What this translates to is a small window of opportunity to get them into the ground and growing before temperatures rise so high that growth stops and you end up with teeny tiny tubers. I assure you, nothing is more depressing than anxiously digging up your home grown potatoes only to find pea sized proto-potatoes. As it turns out this planting window is a two week period beginning about mid January. That means planting time is about a month away. Now is the best time find your potatoes!

Obtaining Potato "Seed"

Potatoes are grown from... well.... other potatoes. That is-- what is referred to as potato "seed" are actually tubers from existing cultivars, essentially clones of the parent plant, rather than true seeds. Although they are capable of flowering and producing true seed, this is rarely done as any offspring are not likely to grow true to type, due to the genetics of potatoes. The downside to having consistent potato clones, is that any disease a plant picks up is then transferred to its cloned offspring, and subsequently to its offspring, etc. So although you can save your own potatoes for replanting, quality of subsequent crops can take a nose-dive. Thankfully, you can purchase "Certified Seed Potatoes" which have been tested to ensure that they are disease free.

There are many varieties out there to experiment with such as russets, fingerlings, whites, yellows, reds and even blues! When choosing a variety consider disease resistance and time to maturity, early varieties are ideal.

Three specific varieties that are well adapted to growing in the RGV are:

• Red La Soda
• Red Pontiac
• White Kennebec

Mail Order is a great way to obtain your seed potatoes as there are various gardening catalogs and internet sites that sell Certified Seed Potatoes. One caveat however, is that you must confirm when their shipping dates are. One very well respected mail order company offers a wonderful selection, but further research shows their first shipping date is in March! Great for other parts of the country, but not for us, so always double-check. If you look around, you can find some that are in fact shipping now. You can also check local nursuries, and suppliers who will usually carry seed potatoes in January. If all else fails, there's always the grocery store! While not ideal, you can in fact grow potatoes just fine this way. It is said that such potatoes are sprayed with a sprouting inhibitor, but they will eventually sprout, if a tad later. Although If you can find some organic grocery store potatoes, I speculate they are not sprayed with such a chemical.

Growing

Once you have your seed potatoes put them in an area where they will get some sun for at least a few days. This will encourage plantlets to form at the eyes and begin growing, giving your taters a bit of a head start before they go in the ground. If your seed potatoes are large, you can cut them into smaller sections so long as each piece has at least an eye or two. If possible, coat the freshly cut areas with sulfur to reduce the chance of fungal infection, and give the pieces enough time to callous over

Loose soil is a must. Rototill or manually cultivate your growing plot so that you have a nice fluffy consistency. Plant each "seed" about 15" to 18" apart in rows spaced about 3' to 4' wide. You can put them closer if your soil is rich and fertile. Cover them with only a couple inches of soil, and don't plant them too deep as they don't like wet feet. As they begin to grow you can periodically rake in soil from the space in between the rows to create hills of soil around the base of the plants, burying the lower parts of the stems. This gives the growing plants a larger volume of loose soil within which it can put out more tubers. If you're looking for yummy new potatoes, you can pluck potatoes while the plants are still green. If you want larger potatoes that can be stored for a bit longer, wait until after your plants have keeled over before harvesting. Use a spading fork to gently coax the base of the plant out of the ground along with the potatoes. For fun, leave some of the potatoes in the ground and you'll have free volunteer plants in fall, without any effort!

If you've never grown potatoes, give 'em a try. Now's your chance! If you'll excuse me, I'm off to have a midnight snack of... potato chips!

Propagating Roses

  

Master Gardener Jennifer Wilson shared a fuss-free method of rose propagation.     

Jennifer says to look for cool nights when you are deciding when to propagate or plant roses. 

Cuttings should be about a pencil width.  Cut your stem right below a leaf node and remove all but a couple of leaves.  

Jennifer uses a growing medium that is 50% potting mix and 50% vermiculite or perlite.  Place a couple inches into a quart size zipper bag and put your cutting into it. 

Zip the bag closed and place where it will receive indirect sunlight.   You may need to add a little water (a teaspoon) - but wait and see if condensation forms inside the bag before you add water. 

Our growing medium had enough moisture that condensation formed inside all the cutting bags.  If you've taken a number of cuttings, be sure to identify them.  

November To-Do List for South Texas Gardeners

Time to plant:


Flowers: anemone bulbs, calendula, geraniums, larkspur, dianthus, petunias, impatiens, ranunculus bulbs, snapdragons, stocks, calla lilies.

Trees: mesquite, live oak, cedar elm, Rio Grande ash, anacua, Texas mountain laurel, brasil, chapote.

Shrubs: Native: yellow sophora, brush holly, Texas Kidneywood, hachinal, heart-leaf hibiscus, Drummond’s Turk’s cap, blackbrush, Torry’s croton, Texas baby-bonnets, low croton.

Non-native: cold tolerant: Japanese boxwood, green pittosporum, variegated pittosporum, nandina, viburnum, dwarf yaupon holly, waxleaf ligustrum, red-tip photinia.

Vegetables: broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, mustard, onions, turnips.

Herbs: anise, basil, Mexican mint marigold, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme.

Remember:

-Harvest peppers, tomatoes, greens, citrus, avocados, pecans.

-Divide daylilies.

-Fertilize 6 to 8 week old vegetable plants with 1lb. ammonium nitrate or 2 lbs. of 16-20-0 per 50 feet of row.

-At the end of the month buy your poinsettias. There are five different color types: red, pink, yellow, white, and jingle bells which is variegated red and white.

-Plant roses.

-Collect leaves from shedding trees and bushes. COMPOST THEM!.

-Watch the weather reports for possible freezing conditions.

-Collect materials to protect citrus trees and tender ornamentals from freezes.

-At the end of the month purchase Christmas cactus for blooming in December.

-Plan now for your December christmas tree.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs- of the lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, P.O. Box 1433, Edinburg, TX.

Citrus Trees

In addition to providing yummy fruit,  citrus trees are also a host for the Giant Swallowtail, the largest butterfly in North America.   The Giant Swallowtail caterpillar is the only caterpillar that has its own name - Orangedog - because, it hosts on orange, lemon, lime and grapefruit trees.

Gardening for Butterflies

Want to attract more butterflies to your landscape? Taffy, a Master Gardener and butterfly expert extraordinaire, has a list of books just for you.

 BUTTERFLY IDENTIFICATION

Glassberg J. 1999. Butterflies Through Binoculars: The East. Oxford University Press. 416 pages. ISBN: 0195106687.

Glassberg J. 2001. Butterflies Through Binoculars: The West. Oxford University Press. 374 pages. ISBN: 0195106695

Neck, R.W. 1996. A Field Guide to the Butterflies of Texas. Gulf Publishing Co. 323 pgs. ISBN: 0-87719-243-X

Opler, P.A. 1992. A Field Guide to Eastern Butterflies. Houghton Mifflin Co. 393 pgs. ISBN: 0-395-36452-3 (cloth). 0-395-63279-X (paperback).

Pyle, R. M. 1981. The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Butterflies. Alfred A. Knoph Co. 916 pgs. ISBN: 0-394-51914-0.

Scott, J. A. 1986 The Butterflies of North America, A Natural History and Field Guide. Stanford University Press. 583 pgs. ISBN: 0-8047-1205-0.

Tveten, J.L. & Tveten, G. 1996. Butterflies of Houston and Southeast Texas. University of Texas Press. 292 pgs. ISBN. 0-292-78142-3 (cloth) 0-292-78143-1 (paperback).

GARDENING GUIDES

Ajilvsgi, G. 1990. Butterfly Gardening for the South. Taylor Publishing co. 342. pgs. ISBN: 0-87833-738-5.

Wasowski, S. 1997. Native Texas Plants, Landscaping Region by Region. Texas Monthly Press. 406 pgs. ISBN: 0-87719-111-5.

Xerces Society. 1990. Butterfly Gardening: Creating Summer Magic in your Garden. Sierra Club Books. ISBN: 0-871856-615-X.

NECTAR AND HOST PLANT IDENTIFICATION

Everitt, J.H. and Drawe, D.L. 1993. Trees, Shrubs, and Cacti of South Texas. Texas Tech University Press. 213 pgs. ISBN: 0-89672-252-X (cloth) 0-89672-253-8 (paperback).

Lonard, R.I., Everitt, J.H. and Judd, F.W. 1991. Woody Plants of the Lower Rio Grande Valley. Texas Memorial Museum. 179 pgs. ISBN: 0082-3082-7.

Richardson, A. 1995. Plants of the Rio Grande Delta. University of Texas Press. 332 pgs. ISBN: 0-292-77068 (cloth) 0-292-77070-7 (paperback).

Taffy's Gardening For Butterflies Tips

Fall Vegetable Gardening

I am a Winter Texan and would like to plant some herbs and vegetable when I arrive mid-October. Do you have a list of things I can plant at that time, or early November? I have an acre and a half of land, a rotor tiller and all the water necessary.   -  Valerie S

Fall is a wonderful time in the Rio Grande Valley to plant vegetables and herbs.  Specific items are listed on our website in the "Monthly To-Do" section.  

Fall and winter vegetables include:
beets
broccoli
brussel sprouts
cabbage
carrots
cauliflower
collards
leaf lettuces
onions
spinach
Personally, I also grow tomatoes (from transplants) in my fall garden. Cherry, roma, and other smaller varieties have a shorter maturation date and do better for me in the fall. Some years we get lots of tomatoes and others it gets colder earlier and they don't fruit until spring.


Herbs that can be grown during the fall and winter include
basil
chervil
chives
cilantro
dill
fennel
garlic
chives
Mexican marigold
mint
parsley
rue
rosemary
sage
spinach
thyme
Many of these herbs will carry over into the spring and summer.

The Cameron County Master Gardeners for 2009

On Oct 7, 2009, the Cameron County Master Gardeners held their Graduation Ceremonies at the Historic Dancy Building in Brownsville. What a lovely evening with the graduates and family members and guest in attendance. Invited guest speaker from College Station, Ms. Jayla Fry, State Coordinator for the Master Gardener Program and Debby Cox, Master Gardener since 1996 both giving their every own interpretation of what the volunteer service and program has done for them. It was an enjoyable evening and I thank the New Master Gardeners for their dedication in completing their internship. I know they will share their knowledge with the Community and I hope they continue be a part of this Association.

Wildscaping

The RGV Birding Festival has tons of fields trips planned -  I hope to take a canoe trip down the Rio Grande this year.  

If you are into Wildscapes - or gardening to attract birds and other wildlife to your yard - this one may be for you!

WILDSCAPING                                Fee $35  
Saturday / 8am – 12pm

Isn’t it fun to see other people’s creative landscaping? That’s what we do on this entertaining excursion, visiting the yards of local nature enthusiasts, and learning how to use native plants, ornamentals, and water features to attract and provide homes for birds, butterflies, and other critters.


Facts: Moderate walking, mostly flat on grass, dirt, pavement. Restrooms not available at most sites. Shade and sun. Insects possible.


You can check out all the field trips here.

FYI - The RGV Birding Festival is scheduled for November 12-15 in Harlingen, Texas.   If  you aren't able to participate in any of the field trips or lectures, the Trade Show is worth a visit.  Lots to do for kiddos and adults alike!   While you're there drop by the Cameron County Master Gardener booth.  We'll have some gardening information and we'll be selling a huge variety of herbs.  

Wordless Wednesday

Gardening for Butterflies - Taffy's Tips

We feel bad for those of you who weren't able to attend Taffy Herridge's terrific presentation on "Gardening for Butterflies" last Saturday at The  Arboretum.  Here's a little of the information she shared.

South Texas Butterfly Gardening Tips
1. Start your garden with proven nectar-rich flowering plants.
2. Plant the larval foods (the ones the caterpillars munch on) for those butterflies you wish to keep.
3. Use native varieties, if possible - varieties from other localities are second-best.
4. Never use insecticides.   Deter pests with biological agents or sticky traps.
5. Avoid artificial fertilizer.   Use organic fertilizers or compost.
6. Never use herbicides.  Weed your garden by hand.
7. Provide a watering hole to allow mud-puddling of the butterflies.
8. Arrange to have shelter from the wind.
9. Use a sunny spot.  Plants produce more nectar in the sun.
10. Place some large rocks around for the butterflies to sun themselves on.
11. Plants started from March through th esummer will need sufficient mulch to prevent water loss.
12. Don't trim shrubs after August 1st.  Trimming later cuts down on blooms and you could haul off chrysalis.

The following plants will furnish larval food and nectar for the adults all year round.

Nectar Sources for Butterflies
Buddleia                    Lippia                      Turk's Cap
Verbena                    Penta                        Mistflower
Sunflower                 Kidneywood             White Brush
Frogfruit                   Milkweed                 Goldenrod
Indian Blanket          Pavonia                     Baby Bonnets
Abutilon                   Plumbago                  Salvia
Sweet Stem             Lantana                     Pyramid Bush
Scarlet Sage            Duranta                     Zinnias

Host Plants for Caterpillars
Butterfly (Caterpillar) - Host Plant
Pipevine Swallowtail - Pipevine
Giant Swallowtail - Colima, Amyris, Barreta
Checkered White - Mustards
Southern Dogface - Amorpha, Dalea
Large Orange Sulpher - Texas Ebony
Lyside Sulpher - Guayacan
Little Yellow - Cassia
Mallow Scrub-Hairstreak - Sida, Abutilon, Hibiscus
Western Pygmy Blue - Saltbush, Pigweed

Reakirt's Blue - Kidneywood, Mesquite

American Snout - Granjeno

Gulf Fritillary, Julia, Zebra - Passionvines

Bordered Patch - Sunflower, Mistflower

Texan Crescent - Ruellia

Red Admiral - Nettles

White Peacock - Lippia, Ruellia, Frogfruit

Tropical Leafwing - Crotons

Tawny Emperor - Sugar Hackberry

Monarch, Queen, Soldier - Milkweed

Whitepatch Skipper - Manzanita

Frogfruit

Taffy's Favorite Butterfly Plants

Common Name / Scientific Name / Host / Bloom period

Blue Mistflower / Eupatorium odoratum / Rounded Metalmark / Oct-Nov

Betony Mistflower / Eupatorium betonififiolium / Rounded Metalmark / Spring-Fall

Texas Lantana / Lantana horrida / _____/ Spring - Fall

Desert Lantana / Lantana macropoda / Gray Hairstreek / Most times

West Indies Lantana / Lantana camara / __ / Most times

Mexican Butterfly Weed /  __ / Monarch, Queen, Soldier / Most times

Passion Vine / Passiflora foetida / Gulf Fritillary / Spring - Fall

Corky Passionflower / Passiflora suberosa / Zebra, Julia Heloconia / Fall

Heliotrope / Heliotrope / Adult Nectar Plant

Texas Frogfruit / Phyla incisa / White Peacock, Phaon Crescent/ Spring - Fall

March Fleabana / Pluchea dorata / Nectar Plant / Summer

Fennel & Rue / __ / Black Swallowtail /

Candlestick Tree / Cassia alata / Most Sulphers / 

Interesting Butterfly Links

North American Butterfly Association (NABA)

Valley Nature Center

David & Jan Dauphin

Butterfly Festival, Mission, Texas   October 22-24, 2009

October To-Do List for South Texas Gardeners

Time to plant:


Flowers: calendula, daylilies, geraniums, iris (Dutch bulbs) petunias, ranunculus bulbs, stocks, impatiens, anembulbs, pansies, snapdragons.

Trees: montezuma bald cypress, black willow, granjeno, sugar hackberry, cedar elm, tenaza, Texas huisache, Wright’s catclaw.

Shrubs: hibiscus, cenizo or purple sage, bougainvillea, Drummond’s Turk’s cap, blackbrush, chapotillo, chilipiquin, white brush.

Vegetables: beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards, onions, spinach.

Herbs: basil, chervil, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, garlic chives, Mexican marigold, mint, parsley, rue, rosemary, sage, spinach, thyme.

Reminder:
- Spray citrus trees for scale, mites and fungal diseases with a combination insecticide, miticide, fungicide spray. See your local nursery or garden center for advice and materials. Remember to read and follow directions and all precautions. NOTE: before spraying see if you have beneficial insects working for you. Call the Cameron County Extension office for more information.
-Fall budding should occur this month.
-Last fertilizer application for mums and poinsettias.
-Mulch around the base of newly plants trees and shrubs.
-Prepare the soil for your rose garden. Use a soil conditioner with gypsum to improve soil drainage. Read the November 1st article on ‘Roses, Planting and Care’.
-Prepare you flower gardens for bulb planting. Bulbs like a well drained soil so use gypsum and peatmoss or well rotted compost.
-Check indoor plants for scale and mealy bug.
-Fertilize your 6 to 8 week old vegetables with ammonium nitrate.
-Watch for leaf worm and beetles on vegetables late in October.
-Harvest: squash, cucumbers, greens, beans, citrus and avocados.
-See your local Texas Certified Nursery Professional for additional expert information on local gardening and landscaping.

(Information source: Successful Gardening in the Magic Valley of Texas, Dist. VI, Texas Garden Clubs, Inc. and Native Trees- and Native Shrubs-of the lower Rio Grande Valley, Texas Landscape Uses and Identification, Native Plant Project, PO 1433, Edinburg, TX)

Bromeliads

Bromeliads are one of my favorite type of tropical plant and can be found growing in mostly tropical or warm climates. The best known is the pineapple plant. There are many varieties of bromeliads which can be grown in many different mediums, some can even grow in no medium. Bromeliads come in many different shapes and size. I first fell in love with them growing in South Florida and found how easy they were to grow and multiply. I enjoyed the fact that the flowers bloomed from the middle of the plants. I have heard them sometimes referred to as the 'living vase'. Not sure if it's due to the fact that water stored in the center cup can be used as a vase for cut flowers or the flower growing from the middle caused the plant to look like a vase.